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Ernest Feuz

(1889-1966) "He is a most enjoyable companion, and to one whose climbing experience is limited, it is a real pleasure to have begun on the other end of Ernest's rope." -Mountaineer and author J. Monroe Thorington wrote these words in the fuhrer-buch (guide book) of Ernest Feuz, Swiss guide on his first trip to the Canadian Rockies in 1916. In 1927, Dyson Duncan of New York wrote "Living in camp with Ernest for three weeks gave me innumerable opportunities for seeing that he is unselfish and helpful by nature. He always did more than his share of camp chores . . . As a companion on a climb he is cheerful and amusing. He has a keen sense of humor." During the A.C.C. Camp at Palliser Pass in August 1922, Thos. B. Moffat, an enthusiastic and active member of the Alpine Club wrote of Ernest "assisting us from a most dangerous position" on Mount King Albert: "We had attempted to climb the peak but unfortunately rain made the rocks so dangerous that we could not make the peak and darkness overtook us before we could reach the snow again. Word was sent to camp and Ernest hastened to our relief. How he ever ascended in the darkness to our position with only the assistance of a small lantern, bringing us food & clothing and then assisted us to safety will always be a mystery to me." Mr. Moffat presented a pocketwatch to Ernest that was engraved as follows, "Presented to Ernest Feuz as a token of appreciation of the work done on King Albert; August 5, 1922 -T.B. Moffatt." The watch is now the property of the Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies. The third son of Edward Feuz sr , Ernest first came to Canada in 1909 and was stationed for a number of years at Glacier House in the Selkirks. He climbed with Howard Palmer and E.W.D. Holway and others completing many ascents in the Selkirk Range. In the Rockies Ernest often climbed with Georgia Engelhard and was with her during the filming of "She Climbs to Conquer." After a Mexican party had an accident on Mount Victoria, Ernest led the party that rescued the survivors. He had a very successful guiding career but seemed relegated to always be in the shadow of his Edward Feuz jr. who was more outgoing and more in demand. Ernest, however was said to be the superior outdoorsman and hunter. [See Ernest Peak]